More on Japan

What a geek I am.

Annnnyway, as promised, top meals:

1. Izakaya is like Japanese tapas - lots of little dishes meant to be eaten while out for a night on the town (very similar in theory to the Spanish). We went to a great place in Kyoto along a canal called Menami. They didnt have any English menus, so the waiter took me back to the kitchen and showed me different dishes. This is where I learned the value of the Japanese word "omakase" which basically means "you choose, my esteemed waiter, because you seem very nice and I trust your judgement. but no pig uterus please". Highlights: grilled quail (seen above) with a lemony-peppery marinade, sauteed mushrooms & greens, and yuba (a preserved soymilk skin. yes, seriously.). Also - the serving plates were amazing!

2. Kaiseki definition: "Japanese haute cuisine served at a meeting, social gathering or ceremony. Typically each dish is served on individual trays and includes foods that are simmered, steamed, roasted, fried, seasoned with vinegar and pickled. Appetizer, soup, fruit for dessert, and rice are also part of the presentation". Very elaborate. We had a couple and found them, er, challenging. You get some dishes that are the best you've ever had, and other dishes with strange pink and white floating things. The whole process of dinner takes up to 2 hours. Still, very Japanese and the presentation blows your mind. Highlights: the sashimi was always among the best we had, and there was usually an impressive roasted or grilled fish.

3. We went to a place in Kanazawa called the Chopstick Cafe - izakaya again. Not the best food we had, although definitely the most fun. Everyone was shouting and laughing and trying desperately to talk to us in Japanese. We ordered their signature dish ("omakase" came in handy again): a piece of raw marinated mackerel served on an ice cube the size of a large brick. The spiky-haired anime waiter comes out, winks at us and says "showtime"(which causes the entire restaurant to erupt in laughter), then whips out a large blowtorch and flames the top of the mackerel. I think it tasted good, but I was laughing so hard by that point I kind of forget.

4. All the sushi. I suppose the sushi in the fish market in Tokyo was the best we had.

5. Surprisingly, western desserts: not the rustic apple tart-type of dessert, but the elaborate fussy Marie Antoinette-style petit fours and napoleons. The dessert floor (yes, floor) at the Tokyo and Kyoto department stores have to be seen to be believed.

Japanese foods I never warmed to:

desserts made from beans

rice crackers, no matter how beautiful.

boiled tofu, especially for breakfast

pickled mountain vegetables, which seem to accompany bloody everything.